@conference{
author = "Ivanovska, Aleksandra and Reljić, Mirjana and Mangovska, Biljana and Asanović, Koviljka and Kostić, Mirjana",
year = "2018",
abstract = "Comfort properties of knitted fabrics depend on various fabric characteristics such as
chemical composition, knitted structure (fabric thickness and weight), air permeability and water
vapour resistance. The purpose of this investigation is to study the influence of different elastane
content and different processing stages (bleaching and dyeing) on the comfort properties of single
jersey knitted fabrics. Samples made of 100% cotton (20 tex ring spun yarn) and elastane yarn (22
dtex multifilament yarn) in alternating courses (half plating) and elastane yarn in every course (full
plating) were scoured, bleached or dyed. Bleaching was done with 50% H2O2 and dyeing in dark blue
shade with reactive dyes.
In comparison with 100% cotton knitted fabrics, cotton/elastane fabrics have increase fabric
thickness for about 5-16%, fabric weight for about 8-21%, and water vapour resistance for about 11-
30%, but decrease air permeability for about 28-51%. Increased fabric thickness is a result of plating
which means the simultaneous formation of one loop from two threads, so that one thread will lie on
the face of the fabric, while the other thread is fed to the needles in such a way that it forms the back
or reverse of the final fabric. In this case, the largest distance between two points of the cross section
of the knitted fabric will increase because over cotton yarn is elastane yarn. With the increase of the
fabric thickness, fabric weight increases too. 100% cotton knitted fabrics, being smoother and coarser
as compared to cotton/elastane assist easier passage of water vapour and air through it, resulting in
lower water vapour resistance and higher air permeability. The increased water vapour resistance and
reduced fabric air permeability can be attributed to the higher thickness, fabric weight and
compactness accompanied with a higher elastane content, which hard segments offer limited water
vapour and air flow through knitted fabrics.
Insignificant differences in comfort properties (excluded air permeability) were found after
different finishing stages. Bleached knitted fabrics have about 4-10% lower thickness, 4-11% lower
fabric weight, 2-8% lower water vapour resistance, and 8-30% higher air permeability compared to
dyed knitted fabrics. There are many factors that affect comfort properties, such us concentration of
chemical agents, pH, temperature and duration of the treatment. Scouring and bleaching were done in
high alkaline conditions with strong oxidative agent. In such conditions the cotton became stiffer, wax
components were saponified, the fibers in yarns became closer, which resulted in a lower yarn crosssection and reduction of the fabric thickness, fabric weight and water vapour resistance. As the loop is
clearer, the air permeability of bleached knitted fabrics is higher. On the other hand, dyeing in dark
shade was done in milder conditions, which resulted in higher fabric thickness, fabric weight and
water vapour resistance, and lower air permeability in regard to bleached knitted fabrics.",
publisher = "Skopje : Society of chemists and technologists of Macedonia",
journal = "Book of abstracts / 25th Congress of the society of chemists and technologists of Macedonia (with international participation) 19-22 September 2018 Ohrid, R. Macedonia",
title = "The influence of the bleaching and dyeing processes on the comfort properties of knitted fabrics containing elastane",
pages = "253",
url = "https://hdl.handle.net/21.15107/rcub_technorep_6796"
}
