IN VITRO RELEASE AND (TRANS)DERMAL DELIVERY STUDY OF BLACKCURRANT ANTHOCYANINS INCORPORATED IN COSMETIC FORMULATION

Abstract

Blackcurrant is anthocyanin-rich berry with proven antioxidant and photoprotective activity and emerging prebiotic potential, widely applied in cosmetic products. Although beneficial effects of its extract are well known, release from skin care products and (trans)dermal permeation were not previously investigated. In this study, enzyme-assisted extraction of polyphenols from lyophilized blackcurrant was performed and obtained extract was incorporated into an Aristoflex® AVC based hydrogel. Furthermore, Franz diffusion cell experiments were conducted in order to examine the release of these molecules from the prepared formulation using cellulose acetate membrane and transdermal and dermal delivery using human skin mimicking membrane (Strat® M). Obtained results revealed that all four dominant anthocyanins readily permeated from hydrogel since 17.5%, 32.8%, 33.8% and 39.2% of delphinidin 3-glucoside, delphinidin 3- rutinoside, cyanidin 3-glucoside and cyanidin 3-rutinoside, respectively, were detected in receptor fluid after 24 h. Experimental values were successfully fitted with the Peppas and Sahlin diffusion model. On the other hand, after 72 h long experiment with transdermal skin diffusion model (Strat® M membrane), no detectable amounts of anthocyanins were present in receptor fluid and only 0.5% of the initial quantity from donor compartment was extracted from the membrane itself, indicating weak dermal delivery. Present study revealed that hydrogel is suitable carrier system for the topical delivery of bioactive anthocyanins from blackcurrant, while dermal and transdermal delivery of these molecules is very limited. This implies applicability of blackcurrant extract for treatments targeting skin surface (i.e. antioxidant, prebiotic, photoprotective).